Five Questions with Isaac Becker

Isaac Becker

When the 2008 James Beard Nominations were released, we weren't surprised to see Isaac Becker name listed under Best Chef: Midwest. We recently spoke to Becker about his thoughts on the Beard nomination, and why food industy people can't seem to get enough of his restaurant the 112 eatery.

AndrewZimmern.com: You learned how to cook in kitchens, not in a culinary school. Do you think that has been advantageous to your career?

Isaac Becker: I would never say that NOT going to culinary school was advantageous to my career. I do think that anyone considering going to culinary school should work in a professional kitchen for at least 2 years before they sign up. Kitchen work is very hard, the hours are long and the pay is low. There also isn’t as much glory in it as one might think. If after 2 years you think you would like to continue on and learn more, school might be an o.k. idea. Be careful, culinary school is expensive and the loan is easy to get. I do have to say it has taken me 20 years to get to were I am and maybe if I had gone to school it could have taken less time.

AZ.com: Your restaurant, the 112 Eatery in Minneapolis’ warehouse district, is well known for its popularity as a late night hangout for people in the food industry. What do you think draws that crowd and keeps them coming back for more?

IB: I think what draws our late night, industry crowd is the food, service and casualness of the 112. There are a lot of things on the menu that you would only see on fine dining or upscale type restaurants (sweet breads, foie gras, a good steak etc..) but they close by 9 or 10. Also eating at our restaurant isn’t a big formal production and doesn’t take along time if you don’t want it to.

AZ.com: Recently, you received a James Beard nomination for Best Chef: Midwest. What’s been the most surprising aspect of that accolade? Any downside?

IB: I always knew it was a big deal but never thought I’ve had people from all over, who have nothing to do with the restaurant business congratulating me. I have also received cards from previous winners and I know that it is probably customary for winners like Nancy Oaks of Boulevard to send all nominees the same card but it is still pretty cool.

There has been no down side yet.

AZ.com: Three of the five 2008 Beard nominations for Best Chef: Midwest hale from Minneapolis. Part of that is because of the new judging rules and realignment of the region but part of it is because the Twin Cities is becoming such a strong force in the national food scene? How do you see our local food scene and how do you think it will evolve in the next ten years?

IB: I think our local food scene is fine. Since I’ve started cooking things have changed a lot. I remember trying reggiano for the first time in the late 80’s and now you can buy it at Costco. Sometimes I think our local food scene has 2 kinds of restaurants; the corporate money makers and the “chef driven” restaurants. I hate to say it but sometimes I think the corporate stores do a better job accommodating their customers and sometimes the “chef” restaurants spend a lot of energy accommodating their egos and the other guys in the kitchen instead of feeding their customers a good, honest meal at a reasonable price. That can only get better in the next 10 years.

AZ.com: Tell us about your obsession with side dishes, half the vegetable sides on your menus, past and present are iconic dishes already…the escarole and anchovies, the cauliflower, your fries and so on…and what do you guys put in those addictive sweet potatoes?

IB: I think my “obsession” with side dishes began when I was the chef at Campiello. In Italy when you order a steak or piece of fish that is exactly what you get. There might be a sauce or some garnish with it but you never see a Steak, starch and vegetable on a the same plate. So at campiello we started moving in that direction which means that we offered the sides separately and also started focusing on them a little bit more. Then in the spring of 2002 I ate at Craft in NYC when we were working on Lurcat and that was a huge influence on me. The side dishes were showcased and a very important part of the dining experience there. At my restaurant making a meal out of a few small things is encouraged so each item needs to stand out on its own, that’s the idea anyway.

As for the sweet potatoes: Lots of butter, salt and love.

AZ.com: What’s in your refrigerator at home?

IB: Every condiment under the sun, eggs, champagne, a wide variety of cheese from Petit Basque to White Cheese Sticks, gogurts, basil and lemons


Isaac Becker is the executive chef/owner of Minneapolis restaurant, the 112 Eatery. Since opening in January 2005 it has quickly become the Twin Cities’ “fine dining destination for industry insiders.”

The restaurant’s success is a tribute to Becker, who before opening 112 Eatery, cut his culinary chops at some of the Twin Cities’ most well-respected restaurants, including Café/Bar Lurcat, Campiello, D’Amico Cucina and the former Lowry’s.

Becker’s interest in fine food began while he was just a child. In the ‘70s his mother worked at two of the Twin Cities’ top restaurants – the Northstar Hotel’s Rosewood Room and the IDS Tower Orion Room. Her work introduced Becker to both fine food and the restaurant scene at an early age. He credits his father, an abstract painter, with inspiring his food style and presentation skills. In addition, frequent childhood trips to New York City, dining at culinary standouts, such as TriBeCa’s landmark, Odeon restaurant, left a lasting impression on the budding chef.

Login Or Register To Post Comments

User login

Google Search

Archives

Links We Love