In 2009, Erin Byers Murray left her cushy office job as a writer for Daily Candy, and headed to Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, Mass., where she learned what it takes to work on an oyster farm. Murray took her experiences and chronicled them in her new book, SHUCKED: Life on a New England Oyster Farm. We talked with Murray about what led her to the oyster farm, what she learned and how to pick the perfect oyster.

AndrewZimmern.com: What prompted you to leave your job at DailyCandy for a job at Island Creek Oysters?

Erin Byers Murray: I was on the lookout out for story ideas when I visited the farm a few years back and was mesmerized by both the work and the setting. Something about these farmers making their living on the water year round really spoke to me.  I was also at a point in my writing career where I needed a break – I really wanted to get my hands dirty for once. And believe me: there’s no better place to do that than on an oyster farm.

AZ.com: Your new book, SHUCKED: Life on a New England Oyster Farm, chronicles your time at the farm. What is the most important thing you learned there?

EBM: Growing oysters requires so much more than a good boat and a healthy body of water; it’s an art form that takes into account water temperature, tidal flows, and the whims of Mother Nature. The growers at Island Creek live and breathe oyster cultivation. I think it’s important that oyster lovers understand how much time, attention and energy goes into growing these briny, little wonders.

AZ.com: Best thing about being an oyster-farm hand? Worst?

EBM: The best: Getting to watch the sun rise over the water almost every morning of the year. The worst: Not being able to feel my hands for most of the frigid New England winter.

AZ.com: How has learning about farming affected the way you think about food?

EBM: Having never worked in farming or food production before, I was surprised to learn just how much physical work goes into growing one single ingredient. Whether it’s carrots or caviar, producing food requires an extraordinary amount of physical, human labor. I used to take for granted that the food at my grocery store, in my CSA, or on the plate at a restaurant appeared so effortlessly. Understanding that there’s a human life (or, more likely, many) behind every single ingredient gives me a deeper appreciation for everything I eat.

AZ.com: Selecting oysters can be a bit overwhelming. What are three things to look for?

EBM: If you’re buying oysters at a market, examine the shell for any nicks or chips which could mean the oyster inside is dry or dead. Look for oysters with a deep cup (the rounded, bottom shell) since they’ll have more meat and oyster “liquor,” which is the briny juice that surrounds the meat. Lastly, once you shuck the oyster, look for opaque meat that fills the entire cup. And always smell your oyster before you slurp it – not only will that tell you that the oyster is fresh but it helps prep your palate for the sea-salty goodness you’re about to enjoy: a good oyster smells like the ocean.

AZ.com: What is your oyster of choice? How is it best prepared?

EBM: Yes, I’m biased, but I love Island Creeks. They are, in my opinion, the perfect representation of an East Coast oyster – lots of brine up front with a hint of sugary sweetness at the end. (And you can have them shipped anywhere in the country from islandcreekoysters.com!) I usually eat my oysters naked or with a squeeze of lemon, but as Skip Bennett, founder of Island Creek taught me, they’re also pretty fantastic with a hit of green Tabasco sauce and a couple drops of vodka (see Patriot Oysters for recipe.)

AZ.com: Where are your five favorite places to grab a bite in New England?

EBM: Tough to narrow it down to five! But here goes (in no particular order)

Island Creek Oyster Bar
500 Commonwealth Ave.
Boston, MA 02215
612.532-5300
www.islandcreekoysterbar.com

Coppa
253 Shawmut Ave.
Boston, MA 02118
617.391.0902
www.coppaboston.com

Craigie on Main
853 Main Street
Cambridge, MA 02139
617.497.5511
www.craigieonmain.com

La Laiterie
184-188 Wayland Ave.
Providence, RI
401.274.7177
www.farmsteadinc.com/lalaiterie

Corazon del Mar
21 South Water Street
Nantucket Island, MA 02554
508.228.0815
corazonnantucket.com

AZ.com: What’s in your fridge?

EBM: Fresh tomato sauce from the last of this season’s tomatoes, peanut butter and jelly, apple cider, bacon, maple syrup, eggs, Bibb lettuce and fresh cilantro from my CSA and a couple of excellent craft beers courtesy of my beer-loving husband.

Erin Byers Murray is a Boston-based editor and freelance writer who took a break from the media world to work on an oyster farm for 18 months. In 2009, she convinced Skip Bennett and the growers at Island Creek Oysters in Duxbury, MA to let a completely unprepared, aquaculture-illiterate food and lifestyle writer work for them to learn the business of bivalves. Her book, SHUCKED: Life on a New England Oyster Farm (St. Martin's Press) chronicles the journey from oyster flats to fine dining tables. Today, she is back to writing full time, covering food and sustainability for publications like Food & Wine, Boston magazine, and Edible Boston.