A great weekend in Chicago included another visit to Grant
Achatz’s deconstructionist culinary temple where we enjoyed 22 courses
including an amazing osetra caviar with emulsified egg yolk, toasted brioche
foam and onion, caper and lemon distilled jellies. Another wonderful course, a tribute to Escoffier, was squab
with onion veloute in a pastry tart and a perigord truffle sauce. Alinea was as magical as ever, but we
decided to branch out a bit and had three wonderful new food experiences which included:
Avenues at the Peninsula Hotel
Four star chef Curtis Duffy’s (ex-Alinea) delicious tasting
menu included a parmesan sorbet with Sicilian white truffles and tapioca
pearls, a lightly poached Faroe Island salmon belly with whipped chlorophyll, fried
capers, lemon zest cumin powder and apple milk, and an A12 quality Japanese
Wagu ribeye with braised beef cheek cannelloni and black sesame sauce.
Sitting on the stools at the Chef’s bar
is always a treat and allows diners to be part of the kitchen experience. 108 East Superior Street, Chicago, 312-337-2888,
www.penninsula.com
Sunda
Chef Rodelio Agibot cooked 15 courses for us in his new
Asian-fusian restaurant. The
seared foie gras on thai rice pudding and Vietnamese carmel sauce, the “duck
hash” of glazed duck, dicon cake, frisee, and crispy egg, and the Malay style
sea bass with a dry rub of coriander, lemon grass, miso, pulverized carrots and
assorted chilis all had amazing flavors and spice combinations. Agibot skillfully intermingles
ingredients, spices, and cooking styles from all over Southeast Asia to create
his tasty and innovative cuisine.
The restaurant is loud, but stylish and quite the happening place in its
seventh month. 110 W. Illinois Street, Chicago, 312.644.0500, www.sundachicago.com
Takashi
Chef Takashi Yagihashi follows up his Beard award winning
stint at Tribute in Detroit and opening Okada at the Wynn Hotel in Las Vegas
with this neighborhood contemporary French – American fare with Japanese
influences. His Sunday noodle lunch
features many small plates such as pork dumplings (gyoza), duck fat fried
chicken, and gulf shrimp rolls with garlic aioli. We ordered two of the 10 different noodle selections. The housemade ramen noodles in broth were
served with shoyu braised pork belly, barbecued egg, and fish cake. The housemade soba noodles were
accompanied with tempura of gulf shrimp, eggplant, green beans, and shitake
mushrooms. This is a welcoming
place with friendly service and an exciting dinner menu as well. 1952 N Damen Ave, Chicago, (773) 772-6170, www.takashi.com